Today we
are going to Rota’s downtown, but we are not visiting any of the well-known
monuments such as the castle, or a church; neither are we going to enjoy local
cuisine nor wines. We are simply going to visit some houses: “las casas que
trascalan”. The term “trascalar” does not even exist in Spanish; it is a purely
Andalusian word that describes houses that are built around a long winding
path, sometimes linking up two different streets through as many gates. This type
of house is almost only found in Rota; in other Andalusian towns one can find
“patios” or “cármenes”… but “casas que trascalan” only in here.
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| Calle Prim 22 |
Consider
a long winding alley that links two larger streets. Then consider that a large
family builds its house on either side of it, using the alley as the house’s
corridor. Consider that small squares exist in the alley where a well or a fig
tree can be found. Then consider that over generations the same family keeps
expanding around the alley, building new rooms on several levels as needed.
Then, finally, consider that the general public “forgets” that there was ever
an alley, and that a gate with an iron fence is built at the entrance to the
alley. A common bathroom would be built down water from the well; later modern
bathrooms would take its place with running water. With time, the alley –now a corridor- is
beautified with hanging flower pots, glazed pottery, paintings and furniture.
The inhabitants would actually compete with other houses to have then as well-decorated
as possible and with the most variety of flowers booming in the spring. An
actual contest used to be held (until only two years ago) for the best patio,
and the awards are proudly hung up on the entrances to these houses for all to
see. That is how “las casas que trascalan” have come to exist over the years.
To
prepare this article I visited four of these houses. Of course I didn’t call in
advance, I just went there and rang the bell; so can you do too! Most of these
houses can be found in the area between the old city walls (Plaza España) and
the line that goes from Plaza la Costilla, to Plaza de San Roque to Plaza de
Pio XII; but the biggest concentration of them is around Calle Mina. Calle Mina
has several houses that link up with Calle Charco, Prim and Blas Infante. Sadly
not all are still inhabited, but a handful of them are MUST visits for anyone
living in Rota.
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| Luisa's cloister |
Calle
Prim, 22, is a narrow house with a strong-looking sandstone façade inhabited by
Carmen. Carmen led me in, and asked to forgive the mess as they were repainting
the white-washed walls for the summer. Still, I saw no mess to forgive but a
shady and green corridor. A bit further up the street is a real surprise at
Calle Prim 8. There Luisa cares for an amazing cloister; full of plants and
shade.
Then a small opening in the back of the patio leads away to a long
corridor full flower pots, with the odd well in the alley’s “square” and stairs
leading to the upper levels. The big surprise comes when one finds himself back
in the street, but in Calle Mina, 19, not Prim. Take a left, quickly, and walk
over to Mina 25 and another long house opens up. This one is not as decorated,
hardly has many plants and seems overwhelmingly white-washed and full of
sunlight. I didn’t encounter anyone there… but I did climb the stairs to the
rooftop for an intimate view of the old town. |
| The Bule-bar |
However,
my personal favourite of those houses I ran into was in Argüelles, 3. There
Juan (Juanmita as everybody knows him) a young roteño full of life and
goodwill, welcomed me into the house that him and his live-long friend Jesús
(a.k.a. Barcala) have restored from decay into an indie “casa que trascala” and
a haven for Carnaval life. The house had been run down for years after most of
its inhabitants moved out to more modern housing, so Juanmita and Bacala
decided first to make their house a home, and then to turn it into a museum of
carnaval. The floor has received golden stars (like in Hollywood) with the
names of the most important people of Rota’s Carnaval, such as Guti, Mercedes
de los Grifos… an idea that has given the alley the name “Bule-bar de los
famosos del Carnaval roteño”. Decoration goes from the absurd (a bird cage with
toy sharks in it) to the artistic (a mural of the old harbour). The extra space
left behind by the old tenants has given the remaining ones room to expand
their own housing, and to put away other rooms as places where Carnaval troupes
can rehearse. Argüelles, 3, is the demonstration that a typical “casa que
trascala” does not need to be kept in the ”old ways” to it still be a beautiful
and intimate place. It just needs people that make it a home.
As
I said earlier, these are just but a few examples of Rota’s popular housing,
many more can be found. Put away a morning to visit them! It will not take more
than a couple of hours and you will be amazed by these maze-like houses covered
with plants and stories. Just ring the bell if you see a house that springs
your curiosity and ask to be let in… or smile and show your camera if you don’t
speak any Spanish. I would maybe offer some tip to my hosts as I leave… but
remember to make it clear that the money is not for the service, but just for a
new plant or pot. Or even better, visit them later with a new flower pot and a
smile just for them.